The TeensyLights16 is easy to build for anyone comfortable with soldering through-hole componets on circuit boards.
If you are not used to soldering or need a little refresher, there are some
great tutorials available on Youtube and other places around the internet.
CuriosInventor has a very nice video tutorial
about soldering. It is one of the better ones available on youtube.
Make sure you have clean non-staticy area to build you controller on. It is best to leave all the
components that are shipped in the anti-static bag (silver bag) in the bag until needed. Simply choose the parts
from the bag as needed. The non-static sensative parts have been packed in a standard zip log bag for ease of access.
The board can be assembled in typically less than an hour by anyone who is proficient at soldering.
- Fine point soldering iron
- Fine flux core solder
- Small wire cutters
- Piece of cardboard or small box, piece of wood or something with a flat area at least as big as the circuit board
- Flux pen (optional)
- Small needle nose pliers (optional)
- Small vice or third hand (optional)
- Magnifying glass(optional) or really good eyes
The best approach is install components from shortest to tallest. This allows you to turn the board over
and solder several components at one time.
View the schematic
View the parts layout
View full board layout and traces
Install the Zener Diodes D1 and D2. These diodes are not the same. For
convenience, the D1 diode 1N5229 has a red tape flag on the end and D2 diode IN5239 has a white tape flag on
it. Please verify the part numbers before installing. These parts are polarity
sensitive and must be installed the correct way. Match the black line on the
diode package with the marked line on the circuit board as shown here. These
components will be installed flush with the board. They can be made to stay
inplace when soldering by simply bending the leads out slightly after inserting
them into the board.
As with all componets be sure that they are installed flush with the board and
centerd as best possible. Once you have soldered them in, cut the excess leads
flush with the board.
Install all flush mounted resistors and solder and cut excess leads
flush with board.
Note: Prior to 12/10/2011 The resistor placement
instructions where incorrect. Resistors R17 and R20 where swapped. Please check
your boards. The following Resistor values are correct. (This problem caused the
RS485 receive function to now work correctly).
R17, R18 - 1K resistors (Brown, Black, Red, Gold)
R19, R20, R21 - 27K resistors (Red,Violet, Orange, Gold)
Install all 17 of the 6-pin sockets (OK1 to OK17) and the 2 8-pin sockets
located between RN1 and RN2. Place the sockets in the holes without soldering.
Make sure the socket are positioned in accordance with the white silkscreen on
the PCB so the end with the pin 1 marks (small half circle) line up.
After you have placed all of the sockets onto the board, place a small piece of
cardboard or other similar material over the top of the board and flip over.
This should hold the parts in place until you can get them soldered. At this
time only solder one leg of each socket, that way you can verify that every
socket is seated flush on the board and if not you can simply reheat the one pin
with the solder on it to reposition the socket if necessary. Once you have
determined that all of the sockets are seated correctly on the board, you can
finish soldering the rest of the pins. It has come to our
attention the 6-pin sockets are not accepting solder as easily as many of the
other components, be sure you have enough flux either from the solder itself or
a flux pen and that you heat the pins long enough for solder to flow completely
around the pins.
Install RN1 and RN2 resistor networks. Resistor networks (Resistor Packs) have a
common pin that is indicated by a special mark, such as a dot or triangle on one
of the ends of the package. The resistor networks go on each side of the 2 8-pin
sockets. The common end (triangle indicator) goes toward the Teensy Socket end of
the board. This is indicated on the board by the white silkscreened placement
marks showing a square outline around the common pin.
Install the stand up mounted resisters, solder in trim excess leads.
R1- R16 180 Ohm 1/4 watt (Brown, Gray, Brown, Gold)
R22, R23 15K Ohm 1/8 watt (Brown, Green, Orange, Gold)
Bend the leads as shown and insert in the the appropriate locations, as labeled
on the boards.
Make sure the resistor is
seated all the way down on the board. Not like this:
Slide together 2 sets of 8 of the blue screw connectors
(terminal blocks). Place the connectors
onto the board. Place the remaining 2 individual screw terminals in the JP7 and
JP8 positions on the board. Make sure all connetors are situated so that the
wire openings are toward the outside edges of the board. Flip the board and
solder. Solder just one side of the 2 pin connectors. Solder just one pin on
each end of the 8 gang on connectors and solder one pin in the middle. Flip the
board and check that all connectors are flush with the board. If necessary
reheat the offending connections and press the parts into place while heating
with the soldering iron. Remove heat and continue to hold in place until the
solder solidifies. Once you are satisfied that the connectors are snug against the
board, you can solder the remaining pins.
Step 7Step 7
Assembling the Teensy 2 and sockets.
To make it easier to assembly, you can use the circuit board turned upside down
to hold your parts while you solder the pins onto the Teensy 2. Note; DO NOT
Solder the pins on the main circuit board, only solder the pins on the Teensy 2.
The main circuit board is being used only as a fixture to hold parts for this
step. After you have soldered the pins on the Teensy, remove the Teensy with its
pins from the main circuit board.
Your final product should look like
Push the 12 pins sockets onto the pins of the Teensy 2.
Place the Teensy 2 on the PCB as shown and solder the sockets in place.Make sure
that the USB socket is facing toward the outside edge of the board.
I normally don't recommend installing IC's until the very last step, but on this
board there is little extra space for fingers, so now is a good time to install
the rest fo the IC's. When DIP (dual inline package) IC's are shipped their legs
are often splayed outward and need to be bent in slightly to fit into the
sockets. This can easily be done by applying pressure across all pins by
pressing down each side against a table top as shown. Exercise due caution here,
not over bend the pins.
Locate and Install H11AA1 6 pin Opto Isolator into socket OK17 as shown. Make
sure the pin 1 marks on the chip match the orientation of the socket and
silkscreen outline on the PCB.e PCB.
Install the 2 ST485BN driver chips into the 2 8pin sockets.
The remainder of the 6 pin sockets (16 sockets) get populated with MOC3032 Opto
Couplers. Be sure to insert the chips in accordance with their pin one markings.
Note these chips are marked by a dot near pin one, that should be placed at the
same end as the little half circle cut out on the socket.
Install the 2 RJ45 Connectors and solder. The jacks will snap into place and
then can be soldered.
Install the 16 BTA04 Triacs. Place all of the triacs on into the board. Align the
triacs with the metal backside toward the center of the boards as shown in the
picture. Use your piece of cardboard to hold them in place and then flip the
board over. Only solder one of the legs of each triac. Now flip the board back
over and make sure all of the triacs are in place and aligned neatly in a row.
Reheat and align as necessary. Flip the board over and solder the remaining
pins. Clip excess leads flush with board.
Install 2 fuse holders with fuses, and solder in place F1 and F2.
These components conduct a lot of heat, so you will need to linger a bit longer
with the soldering iron to get good solder flow.
Install the fuse in the holders. It is easiest to push the fuse into the fuse
holder cap by pushing in at a slight angle, and the directly in the rest of the
way. Once the fuse is in the cap, then insert the fuse and cap into the holder.
Congratulations you have completed building the TeensyLights16 Controller.
The next step is
the Teensy 2 and begin testing.